How To Repair Shorted Ground For 2006 Chrysler Pt Cruisee

Chrysler PT Cruiser Repairs & Tips

We are non responsible for the accurateness of the information or opinions presented here, or for any consequences of taking activity based on them. Proceed at your own risk. Updated 9/3/2017: Ignition module ("gauges going crazy," interior lights not going off)

Dedicated pages for particular repairs

Axle replacement: a footstep by step guide with photos
Camshaft sensor (cam sensor) repair - replacement page
Automatic manual repairs (at allpar)
Calculator codes for easier diagnostics
Shifter/transmission transmission troubleshooting
Multiple sensor problems? Scroll to the lesser of this folio.

Replacement keys

Some people have cringed at the cost of new keys, due to the anti-theft chip within them. Locksmiths usually stock antitheft keys, and sell them at lower prices than nearly dealers, but you may have to plan them yourself (according to the instructions in the owner'south manual). You will need both original keys if you or the locksmith programs new keys; the dealer may be able to make new keys from but one only you lot cannot. Some Net sources tin supply blanks, including authentic Mopar ones, far more than cheaply, but you still need a locksmith (or hardware store) to cut it, and if they cut it incorrectly, they're unlikely to refund the blank. Even at the $threescore-$80 some dealers demand, though, the anti-theft keys are cheaper in the long run than not having them — and paying extra for your insurance every year (or having your car stolen more hands).

Gauges going crazy, or interior lights stay on with engine on

Mike Curran told u.s.a. to check for an ignition module malfunction — "near $thirty and an piece of cake fix."

Stuck rear hatch

"ImperialCrown" wrote:

You may accept to crawl into the cargo area and gently remove the plastic trim console pieces starting at the top, remove the 3rd brake light trim. Everything is plastic button pins, no screws. Warm plastic is less likely to suspension. A wide flat 'forked' pry tool is recommended to slip on either side of the push pin and gently lever the tool to release the clip from the hatch sheetmetal hole. Y'all may likewise want light.

Continue with the pieces on either side of the rear window and finally popular the large lower panel enough to get your hand inside the hatch and manually release the latch. You may be able to gratis up and lube the handle and hatch latch to go on this from re-occuring. It may have froze up due to lack of apply.

Front bushings

"ImperialCrown" wrote: 'The problem with the Neon and PT front control arm bushing is that the prophylactic insulator is 'bonded' to a metal beat out that is pressed into the control arm. In clammy or salt chugalug geographic areas, the bond comes apart from surface rust developing betwixt the safe and steel. The rear of the control arm then drops down and rests on the crossmember resulting in a 'clatter' over bumps. It is never a dangerous condition and would never come apart equally it is a convict assembly. The caster might change very slightly, but other than that it will not significantly bear on alignment. I have shimmed mine with 1/viii" plastic shims to keep information technology from rattling against the crossmember."

Bob Sheaves replied: "The bushing beat agglutinative is not the result; XJ (Cherokee) and others have used them since long before Neon and PT. If the bushings were not preloaded, you would never have the strain of shear force against the adhesive to start with. Y'all have to have a load to seperate the adhesive so the corrosion tin first to begin with. Wearable does get a safety consequence when you let the metallic parts blindside against each other and habiliment through. ... Aftermarket 'bushings' that I know of all have the same issue, but worse, due to the stiffness of the urethane does not concluding as long as the stock prophylactic earlier wearing out due to this loading. The only way to effectively eliminate the effect is to use uni-ball (heim) joints, not bushings."

Lower control artillery and bushings

Richard Cranium wrote:

I just changed the the lower command arm bushings in my PT and the banging noises persisted. I didn't think much about it when I was taking the LCA's off but the bushings for the sway bar had became hardened. They are supposed to be soft, but road chemicals and the like harden them, which can cause noise.

Definitely cheque the sway bar bushings earlier you spring into the LCA bushing chore.

If you lot notwithstanding do the LCA bushings, get a printing. They are impossible to exit otherwise, unless you desire to burn down them out, merely beware, the sleeve that goes between the bushing and the control arm is sensitive to heat, and nearly all of the bushing replacement kits require that you reuse that sleeve. I accidentally scarred mine a little just from the flame of my soldering torch. The factory bushings are adhered to the sleeve and pivot so you'll have to clean bushing remnants off of both. I don't know if they require cleaning if y'all tin can press them out.

The vertical bolt requires a 15/sixteen socket (rare size) and a breaker bar to get information technology loose. I used a 3' long piece of iron pipe and however had a difficult time getting the bolt loose. Don't worry if the nut inside of the frame seems loose, it's a cage nut.

To access the passenger side horizontal commodities for the control arm, yous demand to accept off the engine mount.

Remember to bank check your ball joints before you guild bushings. You can guild a whole new control arm for less than the bushings + ball joints would cost, and you don't desire to have to have the control arms back off to supercede them when y'all could do information technology now.

Overheating, stuttering

Raven wrote: Later on a time, the leap in the radiator cap looses forcefulness and no longer maintains the abililty to keep all of the water in the anti-freeze from escaping. The overflow tank doesn't replenish the loss and eventually information technology overheats. Badly. Like mine did at seventy mph! The cap double locks: when yous think you have information technology airtight you have to button it down hard and proceed turning until it stops or y'all will have slight fluid loss again resulting it the same trouble... It looked like a flop hitting my engine compartment; I idea information technology was big bucks only it was but the issue of a bad cap. Maybe when people have their water pumps changed mechanics neglect to replace the cap and the overheating still exists.

Scotit1 wrote: "Be sure that the two speed radiator fan is working correctly. It is controlled by the largest relay in the blackness box under the hood on the drivers side. The fan may fail intermittently. It is controlled by the sensor nearly the thermostat on the passenger side which has a slide mechanism as well as a clip like the radiator fan to secure information technology. Loftier speed operation can be checked by disconnecting the sensor, while low speed tin be checked while engine is idling without disconnecting information technology. It is noticeable when standing in traffic as the engine will "stutter" while idling if it'south failing intermittently. Bank check to make sure your oil change guys oasis't been hanging their drop lights on the fan wires first!"

MJBee adde: "Every time I stopped at a light the car would stutter badly. I took it to a radiator specialist who replaced the radiator fan and now no bug. He said if I had gone on like that the air conditioning would have been ruined and and so the engine would be side by side. So cheers to the person on this site who alerted me to that."

Eye dash console replacement

Middle nuance bezel (panel) peeling was a trouble on some 2001 models; a service bulletin exists and a dealer might replace information technology for free (they do non take to). Replacement looks like shooting fish in a barrel in the Chilton's manual: remove the climate control knobs, pull off the bezel ("middle department"). You tin find replacement bezels in dissimilar styles from aftermarket suppliers - though they may be far pricier than junkyard or dealer parts.

1 member wrote, "Don't identify whatever hanging air fresheners in the center of your panel! The oils from the air freshener takes the paint right off!"

Oxygen sensor replacement

In that location are two oxygen sensors, upstream and downstream; by comparing the readings, the calculator tin can see how effective the catalytic converter is. The upstream i is somewhat more than likely to neglect. The computer usually tells y'all which one it thinks has failed; sometimes it's correct and sometimes it'southward wrong.

You may need a special oxygen sensor socket, or you may non. Forest wrote, " I have a 2004 model and the clearance between the tip of the sensor and heat shield was too close to use the socket (upstream). The downstream sensor was as well shut to the body for the socket so I wound up using a 7/viii" combo wrench to remove both sensors!"

Run the engine for a minute or two, so the sensor and surrounding area will be hot and easier to remove without damage. This means you demand to be extra conscientious that y'all don't burn yourself on the dangerously hot catalytic converter or exhaust manifold when working. Then disconnect the bombardment, jack up the vehicle, and place information technology deeply on jack stands (or rent a hydraulic lift). Unplug the sensor (y'all'll demand to trace the wires for a while on the downstream one) and unscrew it with the special socket. The upstream sensor is on the acme side of the exhaust manifold, the lower one is on the side of the catalytic converter.

Timing belt

Opinions on whether the PT uses an interference design or not vary. In any case, the timing belt tensioner blueprint was changed in 2003 to provide greater immovability. "Shadetree" wrote that he replaced his 2002 PT's timing belt using a Gates kit purchased at a regular parts shop; the kit includes the one-time-style chugalug tensioner and an idler pulley (dealer kits include a newer design tensioner, but are far more expensive). The flat-rate toll is eight hours; it may take experienced mechanics less time.

"Shadetree" wrote that he differed from Haynes' instructions by not disconnecting the Air conditioning lines or the exhaust at the manifold; he did remove the grille and radiator cross piece, merely discovered neither was needed. He supported the engine at both ends and disconnected the engine mounts, assuasive maneuvering the engine to admission the timing expanse; and he unbolted the throttle body to keep it from going against the estimator. Taking off the engine mounts may be more dangerous than the other method of making room.

Loss of dash lights/ radio LEDs

I found the cause for the loss of dash lights and loss of led on the radio/clock of my 2002 PT: moving the steering bicycle up and downwardly while adding side pressure (either direction) causes the lights to get out. Remove the lesser steering cycle comprehend; turn the ignition key on and then the dash lights and the radio/clock led are on, merely not the engine. Side by side move the wheel upwardly and down slowly while applying force per unit area to the left and right to encourage an electrical open condition. If the lights get out you now can fix the trouble as I did.

I used a small wire spring (3/16 to i/4 inch bore) to hook across the hinge point. Be certain to class the spring ends so they stay put on the swivel arms by moving the stearing wheel up and down. This will eliminate the winking calorie-free trouble. Too bad the electronics designer couldn't accept used a short wire cable instead.

Wheel bearings

A weak point on many PTs, the wheel bearings can make a whining or growling sound which is hard to distinguish. "ImperialCrown" wrote:

The best fashion to diagnose wheel bearing noise is with the front wheels off the basis, chock the rear wheels, set the parking brake, keep the steering wheel directly, don't walk in front of the vehicle and don't get under the vehicle, take someone run information technology up to 55 mph and heed to the left and right sides. Sometimes information technology helps to brake one bicycle to a stop past holding a store rag against the tire tread (turn off traction control, if equipped, and do it without the person'southward foot on the gas!). Listen and locate the noise source. Left and/or right? Be sure that your front end tires aren't cupping as tires and wheel bearings can audio the aforementioned. Make sure that your front strut footing straps are intact as these commonly rot off and tin cause repeat failures. The manufacturing plant was seeing some early begetting failures even though the lube in the bearing was still good. On shut examination you could meet pitting, bodily arc marks, on the balls and races making them noisy. The current from road static charges and perhaps poor engine to body grounds was passing through the bearing itself, profoundly reducing its life. By adding basis straps and keeping everything at the aforementioned voltage potential solved the trouble.

If y'all need to get under the vehicle with the forepart wheels turning, I would suggest using a vehicle lift to be prophylactic.

Gerry added: "Sometimes the bearing is worn enough that it can grind when the bicycle is spun or have noticeable play. I ordinarily take the car in and say "there is a noise when I do this" and permit them figure it out. In this way I don't put the mechanic on the wrong rails if it is not the trouble."

Air workout / overheating

Scotit1 wrote: "If you lot are experiencing bug with the air conditioner, check to be certain that the 2 speed radiator fan is working correctly. The offset symptom is lack of cooling in the a/c. Information technology is controlled past the largest relay in the black box nether the hood on the drivers side. The fan may fail intermittently. It is controlled past the sensor about the thermostat on the passenger side which has a slide mechanism likewise as a clip like the radiator fan to secure it. High speed performance can be checked by disconnecting the sensor, while low speed tin can exist checked while engine is idling without disconnecting it. It is noticeable when standing in traffic as the engine will "stutter" while idling if it'southward declining intermittently. Check to make certain your oil change guys oasis't been hanging their drop lights on the fan wires outset!"

(This has been confirmed by other readers.)

Keys

[Introduction: the PT uses an anti-theft system where a small radio transponder is built into the head of the keys.] My 2001 PT Cruiser ignition cylinder locked up and caused me to crack my primal when trying to start information technology up. Afterwards the key broke off (not in the cylinder, thank goodness!) The locksmith replaced the cylinder but when he tried to reprogram the new keys, the code wouldn't work. He gave upwards and left me with the ii new keys that weren't programmed, and the one former working key. Thanks to this forum I realized I might be able to program the new keys myself, but I needed two keys to proceed. Solution? Tape the head of the onetime primal to the "courtesy primal" (a key with no transponder head). The car thinks it is central #one; then used my 1 working key as Cardinal #2. I so proceeded two program the ii new blanks and saved around $75 to $100.

Wheels and tires

GT Cruisers normally become through their outset set of tires in nether 20,000 miles. Most replacement tires are far more than long-lived and many also have better performance. We found Goodyear's ain Eagle F1 All-Season (be careful not to get the F1 "summer tire") to be quieter, better in wet and dry out weather, and cheaper than the original Eagle RS-A, despite a much higher treadwear index.

If your wheels are having issues with peeling chrome, this may be a good time to step downwards to 16 or even 15 inch wheels; the tires will be cheaper and more comfortable, though some operation may be lost with the college aspect ratio. One insider suggested that, while the wheels are off, if the wheels are peeling inside, to steam-clean the wheels, go rid of any peeling clearcoat, and then respray them with new clearcoat to forestall corrosion.

Key issues

To look at a list of stored computer error codes in your automobile, click hither. (This includes instructions for finding them.)

The automatic transmission in Chrysler's PT Cruiser can only exist used with Blazon 7176 manual fluid. Do non apply Dexron. Make sure mechanics and oil change places utilize the correct fluid. For evidence and horror stories, click here.

Y'all can inquire your dealer for a "Vehicle Information Plus Summary Report." Based on your VIN, it shows every option your item motorcar was supposed to come with, right downwards to the cargo net. (If information technology'southward in this report, your dealer is entitled to provide you with it.) (Cheers, Samba). Dealers can likewise provide yous with a total repair history.

At that place is a guide to resolving issues with Chrysler dealers (and the company itself) over at Allpar. Use it if you tin't get something fixed nether warranty, and remember - Chrysler will oftentimes do repairs out of warranty if there was a common problem, or if you have only exceeded either the mileage or the fourth dimension limit (or if you're just out of warranty).

Power steering whine

chryslertech766 wrote that TSB #19-008-05 REV. A covers this (annotation y'all probably have to pay to accept this done.) Information technology's basically getting the air bubbles out.

1. Clean the filler cap and fill the reservoir.

2. Attach (tightly) Miller Special Tool, 9688 onto the pump reservoir; then attach a mitt vacuum pump (Miller Special Tool) C-4207-A, and apply 68-85 kPa (20-25 in. Hg) of vacuum to the power steering system for at least 3 minutes.

3. Slowly release the vacuum, then remove the special tools and add fluid if needed.

Echo the process until the fluid level stays the same; then first the engine and movement the cycle from lock to lock three times (without stopping). Check for leaks and signs of air in the reservoir; check the fluid level and repeat #ane-3 if needed.

Idle bug, bogging, misses, etc.

A number of PTs appear to be experiencing spark plug problems leading to a diverseness of driveability problems. This appears to be most prevalent on turbo models. To troubleshoot, first check for computer codes, so check the spark plugs for cracking, dirt, or other issues (simply replacing the plugs may exist the best bet). This is not difficult even for amateurs; nosotros suggest using antiseize lubricant when putting in new plugs (very small amounts of information technology!). On older cars, replacing the wires may exist helpful (y'all tin can certainly do this yourself). Check the battery terminals - they should be tight and clean. See the battery section for info on cleaning the terminals which may also be crusade.

A TSB (18-024-05) was issued in 2005, authorizing reckoner updates for PT owners with idle problems.

Hither's a guide to spark plugs - buying and installing them.

Bushings and Watts linkages

Some people have been noting early wear on front and rear bushings, with potential impairment to the Watts linkage if they fail. Owners of early PTs should cheque their bushings for wear periodically, starting at forty,000 miles (cheque the front lower command arm bushings and rear Watts linkage central link). Later PTs apparently used better bushings (we don't know when they switched.) A Watts link is about $170-$200 installed, a new front is $500. If the dealer won't cover information technology, attempt calling the national customer service line at 800 992 1997 (U.s.). (Posted 4/2004) See the adjacent item...

The Watts linkage on a number of PTs appears to exist breaking with age, causing a clunking sound from the rear. Price to replace at the dealer appears to exist roughly $200. "EngineJack" wrote: "I tried to remove the pin with the PT rear wheels on ramps but could not break the taper on the arms. (Non plenty room to apply leverage). So I removed the arms from the chassis and the pin bolt from the link and worked on the pin on the bench. The left hand arm-to-chassis commodities was unbelievably hard to remove. I had to remove the left rear wheel to be able to add together a long bar to the go sufficient leverage to start it turning. On the bench it took my strongest ball joint breaker to remove the arms from the link. Grip the link in a vice because parts fly everwhere when the tapers finally give. Otherwise, it's just a normal car repair job just probably compounded in my case by the rust upwardly here in Canada." (Others said there was no rust on theirs, and so it could be a local or unusual result to have the rust.) Posted 3/2007.

He also wrote: "I didn't know where to put beam stands under the rear so I ran the rear wheels onto pieces of 2x4 to permit room for a trolley jack to slide nether the beam. I then raised each bicycle in turn and slipped a ramp under each bike making it safe to work nether the automobile. I couldn't interruption the tapers at the arm to link joints from under the car so I removed the arm/link associates but had to accept off the left rear wheel to access the left hand bolt belongings the arm to chassis. Man, was that bolt tight. To practise this, I jacked up the axle plenty to remove the left cycle and so removed the bolt without going under car.

"Not wanting the hassle of replacing the link again after some other 30K miles, I bored out the heart of the former link and pressed in a urethane bush left over from when I did the front lower artillery. It's about six months ago then far no problems. Jack/axle stands should be ok at the extreme ends of the rear axle, right next to the wheels, merely how to get them there since that is where yous demand to place the jack? I wouldn't want to jack on the axle too far abroad from the wheels."

Flickering lights

Flickering lights announced to exist a moderately mutual and hard to troubleshoot trouble, just some people have reported that changing the battery and/or cleaning the battery terminals fixes it. Some with perfectly make clean batteries and terminals are also having the problem. Dealers seem unable to observe the trouble, which appears to only touch on lighting - both headlights and interior lighting. Some say that it is non a major issue; it doesn't seem to affect anything merely the lights. Electronics announced to take a separate voltage regulator.

Cold start performance

Todd W Miller about TSB xviii-020-04 (cold start performance with early manual transmission PTs): "I paid my dealer $75 for the software reflash described in the TSB and the entire character of the powertrain has changed. Not only is the common cold commencement hesitation and surging very much improved, but the overall engine operation is much, much smoother and I tin can no longer feel information technology when the Ac compressor kicks in--a trouble that had made it really difficult to just drive smoothly with the stick shift. Credit to Chrysler to conveying through and releasing a fix." (Webmaster note - our dealer flashed for gratis.)

Starting issues / battery ("telemachus")

Having intermittant/hot start problems with your PT? The factory battery came with a "thermal wrap"--an insulating heat shield ($thirteen). This sometimes gets lost but the high temperatures in the engine bay can shorten the life of your battery. Check to see if you accept the wrap around your battery. It is a blackness plastic insulated sleeve. If you need a new battery, install a heat resistant type.

Next, the battery/starter wiring harness is located where corrosion tin be a trouble. Mine had corroded connections which led to high resistance and melted the terminal cease at the starter. When I replaced it ($75), I noticed the new harness was congenital to a college standard of quality with terminals that were not only swedged but soldered equally well. (Telemachus' PT was a 2002 model.)

Finally, a bombardment with an internal brusque will run the lights and radio, etc., but will not crank the starter. You may hear a staccato automobile gun like clicking equally the solenoid tries to engage. In brusk, check your bombardment and wiring harness to the starter before having your starter replaced.

Brakes

Tom Conway, a ten-twelvemonth dealer service veteran, wrote that rotors may habiliment quickly considering the inside pads may weld themselves with rust to the slide track. The caliper would still work but the outside pad could wear very speedily while the inside pad stayed good. (This would as well affect operation and gas mileage). The lesser line is to get your rear wheels off and check the brakes. Tom suggested filing the slides and trueing upwardly the replacement pads' "corner" where the pad tracks the slides to provide some boosted relief...non enough to create a problem, but enough to let common salt and slush to run out. He as well used copper coat antiseize on the corners of the pads, the slides, caliper guides...don't forget the caliper sleeves every bit a practiced silicone grease will proceed fashion to keeping things moving reliably.

He wrote: "Getting the rotor off is easier if you pull the rubber plug and back off the emergency brake shoes as the rust flakes are going to frustrate you otherwise. Rotors were just $16 at NAPA of all places, Advance had the calipers and pads."

Oil pressure

Joe Adams Ii reported: "I started having an oil pressure problem last month. The oil filter gaskets would blow out after increasing the rpm's a little bit. I tried many different oil filters and called many repair shops including the dealership. They all told me that the oil pump was bad. [I got a new pump for $80 and when installing it, noticed that] the jump had broken into about fifteen pieces causing my oil pressure to build. I replaced the valve, leap, and new cap into my one-time pump. The plunger, spring, bolt and gasket are $26 from the dealer (not available from a regular parts store)."

Safety note

Steph from Florida noted: "I honey my 2004 PT Cruiser - it'southward the second one I've owned. But the re-occuring problem with both has been the driver'south seat. There's currently zip under the seat to prevent annihilation in the dorsum from rolling right under the driver's seat so under the pedals! Quick stops particularly highlight the problem. I had my nephew in the back with a bottle, and when he dropped it on the flooring, it concluded up underneath my brake pedal as I was trying to stop. Luckily, I wasn't going fast and was able to get the bottle out earlier hitting anything. I tried to report this to Chrysler, but none of their phone operators seemed to empathize that I was trying to report a problem, not find out well-nigh existing recalls. I did report this to NHTSA, but so far, no recalls that I've been notified of. Right at present, I'm driving with a towel under the seat to block any stray items."

Bumper discoloration (2001-2003 models)

"skidsmadawg" wrote the following; many owners apparently were told past dealers that they were the simply people with the trouble, or that it couldn't be stock-still nether warranty.

The PT fascias from (2000-02) were injection molded with a TPO plastic using a technology chosen MIC (Mold In Color), where when they come out of the mold, they are that gray color, giving the PT that one-of-a-kind look. Well, as you lot know, the sides of the fascia are painted body color in a bake oven. Consequently, the gray part had to be taped off then the sides could be primed and and so painted body color. When the part is heated in the baking oven, the tape on the fascia interacts with the plastic pulling the UV resins out, mainly due to the loftier temp of the oven. DC did much Xenon accelerated atmospheric condition testing to solve this outcome for u.s. PT owners. They understood the trouble was caused past the interaction of the record, oestrus, plastic, and UV exposure, but could never quantify how much of what actually caused the failure. They were atomic number 82 to believe that there was another element out in the field that was not being accounted for (wax, smooth, chemical, etc...that accelerates the problem) They were able to optimize the record to reduce the problem (some tapes cause it more than than others). Only in the test labs, they could never duplicate the nasty failures we encounter on our cars.

Every bit you all know, in 2003 DC went to an all painted fascia, partly because of the problem with the white condition, but also cause information technology was less expensive because they didn't take to utilise the tape anymore because the entire fascia was existence painted.

THE Set: Since the white marks will come back even on parts from the MOPAR service center, the just solution is to pigment the fascia (as some take already done). DC is extremly committed to taking intendance of us. As we speak, DC is working on writing a TSB for the dealers either to pigment them body color or a similar gray color for those that yet similar that expect, they just need to find a matching aftermarket color, as this is not something that will come from their OEM color studio, rather the dealers/body shops?

They did not revisit the upshot until 2002-03, when customers started complaining. I was told that subsequently massive testing in 2002-03, they found that the upshot would not occur subsequently i trip through the pigment booth, merely only about lxxx% of the fascias make it through on one trip. The remainder need to go through a second time or a 3rd fourth dimension, heating it up again and again.

So, the decision in April of 2003 was to run the fascias through the paint line a maximum of 2 times. But deport in mind, that by 2003, they were already onto the painted fascias and at that place wasn't a whole lot they could do, except endeavour to make certain the fascias in MOPAR were acceptable for service. Which, they are having bug with those because in that location is something out there that is causing this and they tin can't find information technology. Too, go along in mind, engineers motility on to new and upcoming projects and don't always stay with one car, and then issues sometimes become lost every bit new people step in. And so, that kinda explains why its been so long and null was done. Personally, I recall DC should take wrote a TSB ii years ago when complaints started coming in.

Every bit far every bit when I say a TSB is coming out. Information technology is coming. Trust me on that, and the only solution is to paint the fascia considering the tape marks will continue coming dorsum no matter how many new fascias you put on your car. Just it is difficult to paint considering the gray fascia has a textured surface and for the painted style the texture in the mold was polished out. The texture causes the paint when sprayed on to appear a footling darker. So the main matter is to have a dealer that knows what they are doing, spray some agglutinative promoter on and perhaps lots of paint and then that the texture isn't every bit visible. OR just pigment the fascia a greyness color and so you lot don't have to worry nearly colour matching.

The TSB he provided cannot legally be reproduced here, only information technology is number 23-034-04 and talks about discoloration or whitening of the bumper. As skidsmadawg said, it uses scuff cleaner, plastic prep, plastic adhestion promoter, and bumper promoter; it is indeed covered under the warranty!

Ed Gushue added: "This gray color tape look that shows up can be removed with #2 reddish scuffy and h2o. Does non impairment plastic as color is molded in. Inspect with 20 power magnification."

Parts and accessories

Click here to visit our parts and accessories page.

Click hither for Allpar's list of parts sources.

The hatch supports - liftgate props, equally they're called - may concluding only four or five years before they get-go needing more than help to go upward. PT Cruiser liftgate props are part number G0004564 and toll around $25 each for genuine Mopar parts at a discount dealer similar Pomoco or Wyckoff Chrysler, though the listing price is around $40.

Batteries

Neal noted that there is an verbal replacement for the PT battery, fifty-fifty though it may not show upwards in parts books:

Information technology's the 26R way. Information technology's the aforementioned battery that the Neon uses, so yous can always use the Neon as the "search" vehicle. Almost all of the name brand and generics of 26R batteries deliver 525 common cold cranking amps (CCA) of power, which is less then the Mopar at 540 CCA. One exception is Sears' DieHard WeatherHandler, which has a capacity of 575 CCAs. The Sears bombardment was priced at $59, compared to the lower capacity 26Rs, which are in the $39 - 49 range. Warranties for these batteries are all nigh the same: either xviii/24 month costless replacement, and 72 month prorated....

One drawback of the PT battery is that information technology has the opposite terminal design (hence the "R" in 26R) and most other batteries do not.... There is a new style "gel" bombardment which supposedly fits in a cruiser. While a bit more pricey (starting at $125), the deep bicycle variety has gotten praises by those who have lots of accessories (neons, a/v equipment, etc) as it doesn't drain every bit fast west/o the engine running and recharges quickly. Further info: http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/

Batteries take a highly variable lifespan, from three to nine years, roughly. Past tests take shown that there is substantial variability even from the same manufacturer and possibly within the same battery model! All the same, if batteries go bad very rapidly, there may exist a trouble with the voltage regulator (too high voltage tin cook the battery), with the wiring, or with high load (eastward.g. a glove compartment calorie-free not shutting off or aftermarket accessories cartoon too much power, specially with the engine off).

Often, the battery is blamed when the real problem is electric contact betwixt the battery post and the cablevision. Inexpensive tools are sold to clean both ends. This tin can lead to intermittent stalling, rough idling, and other problems. The cablevision ends are replaceable and inexpensive if y'all do it yourself; this may aid in cases where the leads cannot be fastened properly at all.

Recalls

Recalls are "enforced" repairs - the manufacturer must do them - whereas service bulletins are "optional" - dealers can charge y'all. For recall related questions call 800 853 1403.

2002 PT Cruisers take been recalled for a estimator software upgrade which will forestall the instrument console from of a sudden being darkened. No accidents have been reported. The upgrade should take a few minutes.

Early Cruisers were recalled to add kid seat information to the manuals.

2001 and 2002 PT Cruisers were recalled to install a secondary seal to the top of the fuel pump module. A fuel leak was detected during an inspection following a government crash examination. There are no known incidents or complaints related to this issue.

Approximately ane-quarter of these vehicles likewise will be recalled for a separate safety issue involving the underhood fuel supply line. The line may rub against the air conditioning service port, which could result in a fuel leak. While this is unlikely to occur, Chrysler will attach a clip to the fuel line to preclude contact. At that place may have been around eight fires due to this - all seemingly occuring after the remember notices went out and vehicles had time to be serviced.

Preventing the gas cap from scratching the pigment

"Redhead" wrote: The long plastic straip works fine - if you open the fuel door, undo the cap, then loop the cap counter clockwise from the bottom of the door around and over the door onto the fuel door hinge! Aye, the cap no longer rubs the side of the car, and has merely plenty room to leave it looped and still locks in opening. This is the style it should have been installed in the first place.

"Emmie" wrote: In NJ, information technology'southward against the police to pump your own gas, my son took his pocket knife and cut the gas cap loose. The attendent puts it on the gas pump. No dangling cap!

Oscarcat wrote: On 2003 models and later on there is a slot in the filler door at about a 45 degree bending on which to suspend the tether and keep it to a higher place the fender. I checked a friend'south 2002 and it wasn't there. It is referenced in the '03 manual but is easy to miss. Those with before models may desire to use a self-agglutinative hook - be sure information technology is small enough to provide clearance - to accomplish the same affair.

Service bulletins

Does your dealer deny the existence of a TSB? Do they claim everything you read on a forum is nonsense? Clear information technology upward right away by calling Chrysler. Within the US, 800-992-1997. Outside the US, see http://www.allpar.com/resources.html

There is a computer upgrade which improves acceleration from a full stop and changes transmission shift points. Information technology applies to automatic transmission-equipped vehicles built before August 22, 2000. Andy & Bobi say information technology made a perceptible deviation. The TSB number is xviii-18-00. The TSB notes that this update adds a tap-downwards feature using the coast/set lever of the prowl control, and up to i.v mpg improvement in fuel economy during highway performance. (Thanks, Yardley Cruiser).

Many people accept noted that, to go above the work done, they needed to tell their dealer it feels sluggish from continuing starts with the a/c on (that's the symptom on the PT) or that there is audible knock nether high load at high altitude. Otherwise, TSB or not, the dealers would non do it.

Chris Durham wrote that there is a TSB on excessive current of air noise which gives dealers some pointers on what to fix. Chris wrote that common fixes are replacing door and hood seals, fine-tuning the door hinges and hood position, and eliminating spoilers, basis effects kits, ventshades, and racks.

A previously noted TSB on 2003 models fixes idle bug.

Noises

Steering wheel clicks: ct cruzr wrote: My steering wheel was popping when I turned information technology, especially at low speeds. The steering cavalcade had to exist replaced because of fault bushings (or something like that). My dealer had to order the part (Monday) and stock-still information technology in 1/ii day (Friday). [ct was non the only ane with this result] - posted in 2000

Moon roof: lckspt wrote: It is non the air current deflector....try this...open the moon roof...speed up and when you hear the doise hld downward the deflector...the noise will notwithstanding be there...it is the overpressure and resonance of the body of the car...when it happens lower a window and it will stop...and so expect at the deflector...it does move upwardly and down but will not make any racket!!! - posted in 2000

Squeaky seats: Some Chrysler PT Cruisers have been delayed because of a squeaking problem with the seats. On the brighter side, we empathize that Chrysler is replacing the seats with the new lumbar command heated seats. (6/00)

Grinding when accelerating from a stop: A noise like the starter grinding was heard when accelerating from a finish in first gear. Would also make the noise when stopped with foot on the brakes and engine reved in showtime or opposite. Turned out to be a broken motor mount or motor mountain bolt. The engine was torquing enough to cause the pulleys to grind on the frame of the car. The trouble was caught before other impairment occurred. Good to know that the grinding can be avoided past accelerating slowly from a cease. Engine would only motility enough to grind under mid to hard acceleration. (Glen Kohut, viii/2004)

Air conditioning / power loss

The oddball air workout control leads many people to constantly drive with the a/c on. When the knob is turned to the left, the air conditioning goes on even when the blue-and-red knob is turned to HEAT. The bluish/red knob is a combination fan control AND air conditioning switch. Apparently Chrysler could not beget an on/off button for the a/c. Likewise, when the defroster is on, the air conditioner compressor is on. (Joe Frisbie pointed out that the defrost mode works like this on most/all cars, to ensure that air is stale before reaching the windshield.)

Avert hood harm!

Despite what Chrysler Group might call back about its highly qualified, skilled mechanics, at that place are lots of careless, overconfident, and simply evidently ignorant people out there in the dealerships. Even those who do care are oftentimes rushed and pushed to get work done too quickly. (There are, by the style, besides caring, intelligent, highly skilled people in the dealerships. It'southward just hard to know which i will be working on your car until it's over!)

Stu in Georgia pointed out that harm to the hood can be caused by people forgetting the hood has a prop rod, since the car looks similar it would have springed hinges. He recommended removing the hood prop rod entirely to avert people from denting the hood by trying to shut it while the prop rod is in identify...

He also pointed out that the plastic shroud on pinnacle of the engine, with DOHC 16V printed on it, has three snap-fit lugs. If information technology is not snapped down completely, it can stick up only enough to dimple the center of the hood. (This happened to him).

Adam West. Broadaway wrote: "I read your paragraph about hoods getting damaged by careless/hurried mechanics. I brought my PT Cruiser in to a body shop subsequently slightly damaging the bumper when I slid beyond an icy span final year. I went to pick up the car and noticed a big burl in the left part of the hood. I asked the manager about it and he seemed surprised. I told him it looked like someone had tried to shut the hood with the prop rod upwardly. He got very angry at me for accusing his guys of that but in that location it was, a huge bulge in the hood. 2 months after, I got a new hood out of the bargain. I did not realize this was a mutual trouble until I read your story."

Smoking (early on models)

Stu in Georgia wrote that early PT Cruisers (first year or so?) can have excessive oil consumption with a large blue cloud of fume may appear on cold startup. Other symptoms include oil in the PCV hose and intake plenum - if you pull the PCV hose off of the nipple that is molded into the plenum, oil volition drip out of both the hose and the nipple. The crusade: the valve cover is different from the other 2.four liter engines (in minivans and cloud cars) considering its PCV oil splash baffle must exist oil-tight. If a valve encompass non designed for the Cruiser is used, oil will go sucked into the PCV valve. It cannot be modified to work! Here are the role numbers of the correct valve embrace (replacing it requires removing the intake plenum):

4777473AB Cover-Cylinder Head
4777478 Gasket-Valve Cover
4777873AB Gasket-Intake Manifold

Clean the spark plugs and intake plenum to eliminate leftover oil while the engine is apart.

Update: Todd W Miller wrote...

i) equally of December, 2005, the valve cover has been further revised as the function number has been revised to 4777473AD;

2) an additional valve cover gasket (pn 4777478) is non needed; the valve comprehend assembly came with all gaskets installed — the outer gasket as well equally the four gaskets around the spark plug well seals. The valve cover also came with all bolts likewise as a new PCV valve;

3) my dealer had a different part number for the intake manifold gaskets--4884648AA--only those were nowhere almost the gaskets needed to connect the PTC's upper intake manifold to the lower intake manifold. My communication is don't carp with getting whatever gaskets. The valve cover cost $149 and it took virtually four hours to practice the task; at present that I know how to practice information technology, it would probably take about 2 hours to do another. The Haynes manual was acceptable plenty although information technology said nothing about loosening the power steering reservoir bracket or reattaching the ignition coil!

IOD fuse bug (from ObiMatt87)

I recently had the original battery on my 2003 PT Cruiser GT finally go bad and I replaced it. In the process of it dying, I lost my interior lights, the retention on the trip odometer, my power locks, my remote key play a trick on adequacy, my radio/CD player, and the odometer brandish showed a "NO FUSE" bulletin alternating with the overall mileage reading. The car nonetheless ran fine, but it was obvious I had blown a fuse or fuses.

Online, there were references to the IOD fuse, just no clear answer on what information technology truly affected and how to replace it (since information technology's in a protective clip you pull upwards). Here'due south the scoop:

1) I bought a fuse tester/puller at a local auto parts store, which enabled me to individually pull all the fuses that were labled as having anything to practice with the interior lights, radio, or locks. This included those in the fuse box by the driver's left knee within the automobile and a 40 amp fuse upwards in the ability distribution box nether the hood. All checked out good, and so I strongly suspected the IOD was the culprit.

2) I never did find anything in the manual or online that said exactly what that fuse affects, other than it is used during initial transport from the factory to dealers to minimize the drain on the bombardment by pulling it up. I know it affects at least the following systems:

- Interior dome/reading lights (the nuance lights, head- and tail-lights still work)
- Ability locks (both the door switches and the remote fob capability)
- Radio/CD/Cassette player (though the unit of measurement will still show trim lighting)
- The trip odometer memory (which would reset each fourth dimension the car was shut down)

3) The yellow xx-amp IOD fuse is in the fuse box (power distribution centre) nether the hood and only behind the air filter housing. It stands out because information technology is encased in a protective clip that allows you to pull it up to break the excursion, but exit it in place for transport and non become lost. The challenge is getting information technology out of that clip. To make it a bit easier to admission, I removed the housing elevation to the air filter, which is simple (undo the clips on the left side and the right front side, and so the screw holding the retaining band on the safety hose on the back left side).

iv) Taking a very small, sparse screwdriver that I use for glasses screws worked well. You'll see a minor rectangle opening in the top (where you'll be able to read the "20" on the fuse). I think a minor curved tip screwdriver would work, too. Accept the tip of your screwdriver and insert it in the opening, with the pressure upward under the left side of the opening (the top is actually hinged, with the left side existence where information technology clips downwardly in identify and the plastic hinges on the right). It takes a piddling effort, and I used my left manus to try and help unclip the left side of the clip while I practical the out/lifting pressure with the screwdriver. Afterward a while I got it, and the top opened upward to allow access to the fuse.

5) Took out the fuse, tested information technology--it was bad. Popped in a new yellow 20 amp mini fuse, airtight the summit of the clip, reinserted the fuse into the fuse box by gently pushing down, and then checked things in the car. Voila! I had everything restored.

Spare keys

Near PT Cruisers have an antitheft key (SentryKey) with a radio transponder built in to avoid theft. The cost of a new key varies from $25 (Sears) to $40 and up (dealer). To code the key yourself (afterward it has been cutting to match your existing key), put one of your original keys into the ignition, plough to ON (run), get out it at that place betwixt four and ten seconds, and remove the fundamental. Immediately put the second original fundamental in, and turn it to ON for nearly 10 seconds. A chime should sound. Immediately accept the key out, put in the new spare key, and turn information technology to the ON position. After about ten seconds, y'all should hear i more chime. Just a limited number of keys can be programmed, and you only become a few attempts to become information technology correct, so exist careful and wait to hear the chimes when doing this process. We accept now washed this ourselves. It is the same process as on many other Chrysler vehicles. Not all PTs take this key - some have a plain key that costs about $1 to replicate.

Multiple sensor problems?

Doc Butler wrote... I read these codes:

P0129 Barometric pressure depression
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Voltage
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit
P0335 CKP Sensor A Excursion Functioning
P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

I added a fuel line schraeder valve to check pressure level; pressure was at the superlative of the range.

I put water in the radiator and replaced the MAP sensor (unnecessarily) because it read 0.485Volts which should take been between 4 and 5V although the 5V "reference" was good. Swapping the MAP inverse null, and so from that point I took my time learning and diagnosing.

I found 14 ohms resistance from the block to the fender and negative battery concluding. ... There was some fine surface corrosion on some of the pins (common salt water and even beach air is corrosive). I cleaned them with a plastic brush and contact cleaner, CRC I think. That or some other picayune apparently improved my cake to ground resistance considering information technology went away.

Looking at the bigger picture show, well-nigh or all of the codes unsaid a 5V trouble, I would accept thought the supply, but that was fine in different places. Finally, I decided to pull all of the sensors involved, one-by-one to see if i was pulling the MAP output down from an internal brusque to footing.

My MAP 5V reference (green every bit I think) still reading 5V reference OK. I connected the meter to the MAP signal (orangish every bit I remember) still read 0.485V.

Well, here I go pulling the connectors, Cam Position Sensor was easy to go to so it was first and BAM, sensor voltage went up to 4.8 Volts. Got the new Cam Position Sensor installed and she cranked right up.

The of import learning here to me is that ... one sensor output can curt, pulling other sensors down. That means any of Cam Position Sensor, Creepo Position Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, oil pressure level, and whatever else shows in these codes tin bring the others downward.

A mechanic friend told me of one that was odd with a cam sensor that appeared to be bad but wasn't. He eventually found a pin that fixed the magnet to the cam for Cam Position Sensor to read had sheared. The magnet piece stayed in place while the cam withal rotated until he replaced the pin.

Miscellaneous PT Cruiser repairs and bug

peta/PTzPT wrote about "snagging my sleeve on the door lock pins on my 2002. I finally stock-still the problem! I went to the local Crafts Store and bought four wooden 3/4" assurance and drilled them out to fit the pins. For asthetics I stained them a nice warm medium old english shade with some Formby'due south and then coated with poly urethane for shine. No more sagging the sleeve on the pins and they really sort of look nice with the neutral shades of the interior!

A relatively small number of people take reported cracking windshields which appear to be due to wrong associates or similar issues. If this happens to you, pressure the dealer or Chrysler (via 800 992 1997) for replacement.

Some people have likewise reported windshield chipping. This may be a result of airflow; Dean said he had good results with a 3-piece Lexan deflector from Advanced Motorcar.

PTZoom wrote: "there is a TSB regarding replacing the parking restriction 'blaster' with a stronger unit as regards the failure to engage problem."

To find the date your automobile was built, open the driver'southward door. On the door, just under the latch, is a white sticker. In the bottom left manus corner is the engagement in MMDDHH form - month/twenty-four hours/hour, e.g. 071111 is July 11th at 11 am. (Thanks, Poodles.)

Roy Thigpen wrote: "My 2002 PT Cruiser had an electrical short acquired when the wire from the battery to the distribution cake was rubbed through by a sharp edge on the engine block, where the bracket is secured. This blew out the starter and the battery and could have caused a burn."

New PT Guy wrote that Chrysler is enlightened of the "leaky squirter" effect; see your dealer to get a revised one. They may exist backordered. The dealer should replace both even if but 1 is working. Until and then, try washing the hood with water after using them. (8/22/00)

Gas mileage: Proper tire inflation, upgraded plugs and wires, frontwards-looking driving habits (eastward.g. slower acceleration and coasting to lights) all have an bear upon; some written report better mileage from higher-flow air filters.

A pocket-sized number of 2001 Cruisers seem to have been congenital with bad headlight switches which can cause the lights to get out.

See our functioning tips.

Comments? Additions? Utilise this class over at allpar!